- New spars are tough to get your hands on, a new extrusion is pricey.
- Best bet is to repair the one you've got. Atlantic Spars in Annapolis has straightened a bent mast.
- Spreader Tips/Angle
- Spreaders can corrode from normal wear or flex because of abnormal use
- can have them duplicated whenreplacingthe shrouds
- Yes, the carbon pole can snap!
- Years of stress add up, unfortunately this is a part that doesn't lend itself to being repaired very well and probably will need to be replaced. We've had good results with Forte Carbon in CT building a custom pole using the existing fittings.
- BIG note on replacing this is the POLE OUT LINE! DO NOT let it retract into the tube as you remove the pole! Tape an extension line onto it that will run through the blocks. Here's some advice if it gets away from you: Bow Sprit Launching Line Question
Tip: If you snap your forestay while sailing, tie the spinnaker halyard to the tack line.
- Keep the wire from your old jib to use as a forestay if you store your boat with the mast up!
- Furler Drum
Tip: If you snap a shroud while sailing, just sail home without tacking. No problem!
- Triangle Bungee
Blocks & Cleats
- Backing washers
- It seems some bolts and washers on some Johnson 18's aren't stainless. We have yet to devise a pattern on where they are used.
- I recently added a swivel extension for the main sheet. When I went to remove the screws of the aft-most main block on the spine, they were frozen to what I assume is an embedded aluminum
plate as there were no nuts. 3 out of four broke on attempting to gently remove them. I took a while to get them off and the holes cleared. I wound up through-bolting them while worrying about
centerboard clearance. I think it worked out in the end but I had about for hours into that (4 screws). I removed the two main sheet cam-cleats on the tanks only to find completely rusted out
backing washers that crumbled when turning the screws. My pole and tack cam-cleats were pretty beat,with a broken spring in one, and would re-engage in the douse. I took these off for service
and they too were backed with crumbling steel washers. As I look over the boat, most of the hardware shows signs of rust at the fasteners.
- I just found a rusted nut inside the mast on #181, built by JBW. It was on the back of the vang turning block, and it was regular steel. The other nut was stainless, so it looks like
it was just a mistake. I haven't seen any rusted hardware on my boat, #132. But I have found a lot of galvanic corrosion in the backing plates like you did. It looks like JBW used thick
aluminum plates glassed into the deck during layup. They were drilled and tapped for stainless bolts, which now have completely galled threads on my boat after 22 years. I broke off several .
bolts while removing the spin halyard cleat and the spin pole tube flange. I drilled out the bolts and re-tapped the holes, but what a PAIN! I broke 6 drill bits on 5 bolts...
- Boom Vang Turning Block
- Late this season we broke the strop that hold the vang turning block (and feeds it through the deck). [Incidentally, this is also the same block that puts a hole in the deck when you haven't disconnected it and you lower the mast]. So we finished the season with the block tied using a spare length of line. I took the mast off the boat to fix this. here's the new bolts and strop:
- My mast base plug has been broken for a decade- the bolts that hold the plate to the plug have been free turning for as long as I can remember. This has the benefit of making it easy to fit the pin through the plate when stepping the mast since the plate has been flopping all around. However, I finally had occasion to drill out the 4 pop rivets that hold the plug into the mast, since the only way to access the nylon-nuts that hold the strop on is to remove it. So drill out the rivets and here is what you get (after I removed the old screws and spinning locknuts:
- I think this plug originally, had 3 holes and screws through it. The rigger that straightened my rig 8-10 years ago started to drill a new hole (the tiny 4th hole int he plate) but decided to leave "as is." The point is that the back of this plug got broken off and I've not needed to do anything to fix it since the mast doesn't move much at the base when stepped. After scraping with wire brush and installing new SS screws and locknuts (I added a SS washer too)
- The mast looks like this (see backing locknuts and washers and holes for rivets):
- So I bolted on the new strop, and then I decided to not pop-rivet the plug back in so I tapped the holes with a #16- 12-24NC - machine screw - tap.
- Which worked great for 3 of the 4 holes (look at holes carefully to see the new threads) But one of the holes was more corroded and the 12-24 SS screw slipped, so I retapped with 1/4 inch tap and used the larger screw (the head is a bit bigger):
- Rudder Adjustment
- Centerboard Adjustment
- Hiking Strap Adjustment
- Spinnaker Bag Controls
- The blocks are attached to the bolts in the hull with small eyestraps - something like this: APS item: RWO R2849